This year there won’t be anything as exciting as the USA but gives me loads of time to see a bit of Ireland.

So stage 1 of the Photo Rally consisted of 4 locations that are not too far from Dublin. In total around 255km so it was a nice spin for a Thursday evening in April. The locations were as follows:

10 (B) - Dunlavin Courthouse (N53 03.541 W6 42.017)
09 (C) - Donadea Forest Park Entrance (N53 20.828 W6 44.639)
07 (D) - Bracklyn Gate Lodge (N53 34.144 W7 06.446)
08 (E) - Tower of Lloyd (N53 43.997 W6 54.314)

The number (10, 09… etc) represents the Photo Rally points while the letters (B, D…. etc) represent the points on the map below.

From Photo Rally Stage 1 (Dublin Ring)

So around 4pm, I saddled up and left. I had to be down to Dunlavin and back up to Naas by 5.30pm to meet Biker Dave who was going to join me for the rest of the route. Loads of time or so I thought.

Leaving Dublin was a nightmare with traffic and it was just as bad on the Blessington Road. I had planned to stop and take a photo of the Blessington lakes but with tractors and trucks on the road that idea was scrapped.

Eventually I got to Dunlavin and found the courthouse. I planned to try and take a few artistic shots but there was two old lads sitting on a bench staring at me. I got a bit self-conscious and took a quick snap and rode on up to meet Dave.

From Photo Rally Stage 1 (Dublin Ring)

Got to Naas without any drama and Dave arrived. Had time for a quick snack and we were off to find Donadea. Dave motored on as he knew the way and left me to follow the GPS. Again the traffic was brutal until we were well outside Sallins. Found the park without much bother. The GPS coordinates provided by the Photo Rally organisers are quite accurate.

From Photo Rally Stage 1 (Dublin Ring)

So next on the list was Bracklyn Gate Lodge. At this stage the roads were getting very rough. Not any trouble to the GSA but Dave on the CB1300 was getting thrown about. His suspension is a bit stiffer (oh er!). He did get a break when we joined the M4 for 17km but this time he got hammered with the wind doing 130kmph on a naked bike. After another 25 minutes on some nice rough roads with lots of loose gravel patches, we arrived at the photo point.

From Photo Rally Stage 1 (Dublin Ring)

Starting to get a bit cold at this time of the evening (around 7.50pm I think) so we put on our extra layers. Last point of the evening was the Tower of Lloyd near Kells. Starting to get worried about daylight at this stage as we reckoned it was around 30 minutes to the tower. So off we went, only stopping for a coffee as Dave was starting to feel the cold in his summer gear.

From Photo Rally Stage 1 (Dublin Ring)

So we got the final photo and headed straight for home. Stopped once to put more gear on as it was now very cold.

Next stage I’m hoping to complete this Sunday when I take a spin up North.

The first day on the road was Fairbanks to Destruction Bay. Quiet enought day, and we decided to stop off in Destruction Bay for old times sake. We knew the food was good and they had wifi - sold! But the highlight of the day (and possibly my life) was a visit to the Christmas Shop in a town called North Pole, just outside Fairbanks, Alaska. I got to meet the real Mr and Mrs Claus, I shit you not. Reindeer and all, the whole show (or should I say snow… har he har).

What a photo!

Prancer himself

Second day was down to Watson Lake. While passing through Whitehorse we met a group of guys on Kawasaki KLR650’s that we had met on our first day on the Alaska-Canada (Alcan) Highway. We had heard last week that a guy from San Diego was killed at around mile 132 of the Dalton Highway on Monday (9th June), just past where we drove to the Arctic Circle. We had been worried that it may have been one of these lads, as the guy who crashed was also on a KLR650. Anyhow it wasn’t one of the guys we had met before. That said, our sympathies go out to Terry Bowyer’s family and friends. It really hit a lot of us on the road in Alaska and Canada, and certainly made me take it a bit easier.

The guys KLR650’s

Third day was down to Dawson Creek which was a longish 970km. While getting gas in Muncho Lake we bumped into Nelson again (the Indian guy that rode from Argentina to Alaska). Had a quick chat and hit the road. We later bumped into Nelson again when pulled into the same motel that we were staying at in Dawson Creek. We all went for dinner and had a good night out.

Yesterday then was a killer day. 1200km and over 14 hours in the saddle. In Fort St.John I made the huge mistake of drinking an energy drink. It absolutly wiped the head off me. The last 100 miles or so were the hardest miles I have ever driven.

So got to vancouver in the end and we’re now staying with my sister-in-law, Grace. It feels great to sit down and relax knowing we’re going nowhere tomorrow. Possibly the best feeling of all - sitting in an arm chair for the first time in 2 months. Super.

View from Grace’s apartment in Vancouver.

Today dropped my bike down to the local Suzuki dealer to get a new rear tire, chain and oil change. I think I’ve destroyed the new chain I had fitted before I left Ireland. Made an arse of it by waxing it in San Francisco and not again until Destruction Bay on the way back south about 5,500km later. I forgot to adjust it too. Take into account the roads we were riding and the dirt etc, the chain was badly kinking and slipping by the time I got in last night. So all good, hopefully the bike will be good to go as I have another 550km to ride from Gatwick Airport to Holyhead in Wales to get the ferry home to Ireland.

The route

So on Tuesday the antenna rings got put on the 7.45pm flight from Vancouver to Whitehorse. With the parts due into Whitehorse at around 11pm, Bud and Jeff set off for the spin down to collect. They returned, very tired, at around the 2am mark (I was sound asleep). Hans got up at around 4.30am (apparently) to start the work on his bike (again, I was out cold). Around 6.30am he was banging on our door looking for tools. So we all got up around then to get the bikes fixed. I was fairly useless at this stage as I knew nothing about the beemers and could barely keep my eyes open. Just arsed about taking photos and trying to annoy people.

While we were waiting around on Tuesday, a guy pulled up, Marty I think, on a R1200GS looking for the Irish guys. Apparently our predicament became known around the bikers further north from a post I put up on the ADVRider forum. He pulled in and said there were a group of Estonians on R1200GS’s about 3 minutes behind him. They had an antenna ring that could get the bikes started. So Marty and his group pulled off, and we waited on the side of the road for the Estonians. About 10 minutes later they came along and BMW Stig made a feable attempt to wave them down. They just waved back and kept riding. Shit! All I can say is thanks so much to Marty and all the riders who thought of us. We were very touched, but BMW Stig made an arse of stopping the Estonians.

Hans’ bike stripped down

With the bikes fixed and running properly, we all set off around 12pm. Once we got to Tok (pronounced toke I think) Bud, Hans & Jeff turned south to head for Anchorage. Sad to say goodbye to the lads we had been hanging out with for 4 days, but we had to get north to Fairbanks. Thankfully the Tok to Fairbanks road was in great condition, compared to the road from Destruction Bay to Tok, we did it in around 3 hours. We got a hotel and crashed out.

Thursday we had planned to set off for the Arctic Circle but I needed to get a new front tire first. That took much longer then expected, so we went back to the hotel and just chilled out for the day. The Arctic Circle could wait. We took a stroll down the road and passed a cinema that was showing the new “Hulk” movie at 11.59pm. We’ll have that. Very good film. It did wipe the heads off us coming out of the cinema at 2am and it was still bright!

Fairbanks at 2am

So today, we got up and hit the road. We wanted to get to the Arctic Circle which was around 195 miles away. 80 of those there along the Elliot Highway which was paved. From there we had to take the Dalton Highway which was 115 miles of unpaved, gravel road. I was shitting the thought of riding 115 miles of gravel, but after the first 50 miles of so I loved it. It was brilliant fun standing on the pegs and blasting through the gravel. Reckon I want more of this. An off-road bike might be on the cards.

The Dalton Highway

So we made it up to the Arctic Circle no bother. Also we forgot to bring the cigars with us. We bought cigars in New York and carried them all across the USA and up through Canada with the intention of smoking them (or attempting to) when we got as far north as we could. Some balls up.

Anyways, got all the photo’s taken at the Arctic Circle sign and blasted back down to Fairbanks.

So that’s it. That’s as far north as we’re going. Tomorrow starts the ride back to Vancouver to deliver the bikes to be shipped on the 21st. We’re on our way home.

Yep, I made it over the Arctic Circle

Arctic Circle

I’ll post a route map maybe on the next blog post. Too knackered right now. Later.

At breakfast we noticed another group of riders at the table beside us all on BMW R1200GS’s. So after breakfast we went back to the the BMW and absolutly no luck. It also seemed the other group of guys were having trouble with a bike so we went over. Guess what? Another EWS error and his bike was not starting either. So the other group (Hans, Bud & Jeff) were going nowhere.

Hans working on his bike

So after a few hours of working on the bikes, and Hans & Bud calling their BMW dealer in Vancouver, we finally came up with a half solution. We had to sit tight and wait for new antenna rings to be shipped up from Vancouver. It’s now Tuesday, Bud & Jeff have hopped on their bikes and are riding to Whitehorse to try and pick up the spare parts from the 7.45pm flight from Vancouver. So tonight when the guys get back, around 2am, it should still be bright, we’re going to try and fix the bikes. If it doesn’t work we’re going to have to ride to the nearest Uhaul depot and pick up a van. If it works, we’re riding out of here tomorrow.

Meanwhile, another rider came by. Nelson, originally from India but working in Saudi Arabia. He shipped his Yamaha Diversion into Argentina and has ridden all the way up from there. Fair play to him! Think he’s taking a few months to do his trip.

Nelson and his steed

Nelsons adventures can be followed here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=323755

So thats it. Hopefully the bikes will be back on the road tomorrow.

We set out at about 8.30am yesterday morning with the intention of getting to Muncho Lake to stay for the night. Once we had set out we decided to go a bit further and stop at Watson Lake instead which was an extra 170 or so miles (270km). Yesterday we started looking into getting the bikes home and the best option right now is to have the bikes back in Vancouver for the 20th June and hence pushing on for the extra miles to Watson Lake. We had planned to make the D2D gathering in Dawson City on the 19th/20th but that will have to be skipped now. It’s going to be tight getting all the miles done but we should make it.

Saw some great wildlife along the road yesterday. Buffalo, fox, caribou, deer and a family of black bears. The mother black bear and her cubs didn’t seem to be in the slightest bothered by us. We had to stop for a photo:

The bear family

The BMW started giving trouble yesterday also. It’s giving an “EWS” error which as far as we know, means that there is an issue with the immobiliser - seems to be a common issue with BMW bikes that have the factory alarm and immobiliser fitted. Basically the bike won’t start but eventually BMW Stig gets it going. Combination of tightening connections, switching keys, disconnecting the battery etc - whatever he’s doing, something works each time. But if it craps out once and for all when we’re in the middle of nowhere it could be trouble. So we’re making a bee-line to a BMW dealer in Fairbanks, and hopefully we should be there tomorrow.

Quick photo of my battle weary steed at Toad River gas station

We rolled into Watson Lake late enough, after 9pm I think and stopped in a motel with no aircon - christ is was warm.

This morning got up late and got breakfast. We couldn’t leave until after 11am (10am Alaska time when the shop opened) as we had to contact the BMW dealer in Anchorage where we were going to go to get the bike fixed originally but they told us to get to Fairbanks instead.

So off we set with no particular destination in mind - just to try and cover half the distance from Watson Lake to Fairbanks - about 950 miles or 1500km. Spent the day on the road only stopping for a Subway in Whitehorse and gas. Did around 150km out of Whitehorse and decided to stay in Haines Junction but the complete town was booked out because there was some sort of festival on. The kind people in one motel said to try Destruction Bay, about 105km up the road. So off we went.

Covered the distance in about an hour and arrived in Destruction Bay which we are reliably informed is the smallest community in North America with high speed radio broadband. It has a population of 35 people. Makes you wonder how such a remote town in Northern Canada can get broadband and towns in Ireland can’t that have 10 or 100 times the population. Bit of a disgrace really.

Some scenery around Destruction Bay

Destruction Bay - basically a gas station and a motel

Have to say it’s a nice place to stay. If anyone is on this road and is looking for somewhere to stop over, you could do a lot worse! There’s a huge lake just opposite the motel and we heard someone saying that the last of the ice only cleared last week off it.

Thats really it. Roll into Fairbanks tomorrow and take a day off Monday and hopefully get the BMW fixed if they are open on Mondays (what is it with bike shops being closed on Mondays? Same in Ireland). I could do with a new front tire at this stage too. The back looks like it’s starting to square off already so I might just get a new set in Fairbanks. At least I’d have a fairly good set on my return to Ireland - tires are twice the price over there. Tuesday up to Coldfoot on our way to the Arctic Ocean. Wednesday To Prudhoe Bay and back to Coldfoot. Thursday back to Fairbanks and Friday start the ride to Vancouver if we can get our bikes confirmed on the flight.

The route

1) They have “Bounty” chocolate/coconut bars - (can’t remember seeing them in the USA so apologies if they are there too). All I need now is Fry’s Turkish Delight and I’m in heaven.
2) They use the metric system - back to kmph instead of mph.
3) The cops wave at us to slow down when doing 30kmph over the limit instead of pulling us over.

So we left Seattle yesterday and started north. There was no need to go to Vancouver so we crossed the border in Sumas. Absolutly no problems and were across in about 10 minutes. Our goal for the day was to try and get to Prince George in British Columbia, Canada. We didn’t make it though, and called it a day after about 380 miles in a town called “100 Mile House”. We were shattered.

So today we wanted to get to Fort St. John. Had a visitor when I was packing up the bike:

Very friendly little lad

So we were on the road for 8.30am and pulled into Fort St. John at 5.50pm. Christ it was a long day. We only stopped for fuel and a quick Subway in Prince George. Weather was ok - didn’t hit any really heavy rain, but we had showers on and off all day. If we thought we were tired yesterday, this evening is a whole new experience. We literally got food and hit the bed.

Over the next few days we’re hoping to get to Fairbanks in Alaska. From here, Fort St. John, to Whitehorse is 1,300km so that will take two days. Whitehorse then to Fairbanks is about 950km so we might split that into two days again, and stay over in Tok.

So far we have covered 12,884km since New York when we collected the bikes 38 days ago. In those 38 days we’ve had 14 off (that I can count off hand) of which 10 were when the girls were over and we covered around 3,000km in those 18 days in total when they were here. So if I’m correct, we’re averaging 536km (333 miles) per day when on the road which is quite good I think.

The Route

Sealions in San Francisco

Alcatraz

Golden Gate Bridge

Beringer

I finally got a new tire in San Francisco. They only had a rear Michelin Anakee available which is a tractor tire compared to what I had. I’m not sure if it’s the new tire or the combination of the street front (Avon ST) and dual purpose rear tire, but the bike feels like it’s all over the road. Wiggling and squirming. When I get to Fairbanks, I might get a matching front put on for the 1000 or so gravel miles of the Dalton Highway to Prudhoe bay and back. Hopefully the dual purpose tires will be ok for the run up to the Arctic Ocean rather than full off-road tires.

So anyway, we left San Francisco and took the 101 Pacific Highway most of the way north. We stopped off in Eureka California for one night and Bandon (apparently named after Bandon in Cork) for two nights. Bandon is a beautiful little town.

From there we rode the 400 or so miles up to Seattle.

Didn’t get much time to see Seattle, but did get to go up to the top of the Space Needle. For some reason we forgot to take a photo of the Needle itself, but got a few from the top.

I’m sure Frasier lives there somewhere…

This morning then we dropped the girls off to the airport to fly back to Dublin. Their flight was supposed to be at 12.25pm but was put back to 3.30pm, then brought forward to 2pm and finally took off at 1.47pm. Their connecting flight in Chicago was 55 minutes after their original arrival time. While in Seattle airport, the American Airlines staff assured the girls that their connecting flight was also delayed and refused to book them on a later flight. The girls just arrived in Chicago, their connecting flight left 20 minutes beforehand, and the later flight is now booked up! So the girls have to spend 24 hours in Chicago and American Airlines have refused to put them up for the night, but did get them a reduced rate in the local Comfort Inn - big fucking deal. Now Miryam misses work on Thursday. American Airlines are now on my shit list along with Ryanair - avoid them if at all possible!

So, rant over, tomorrow we’re starting off to Fairbanks in Alaska. Supposed to leave today but it was raining heavily so put it off until the morning. The faster route seems to be up hightway 37 through Prince George in Canada, 2000 miles or so, or the better road which seems to be the 43/97 and equates to about 2400 miles. Sure we’ll decide tomorrow.

The route

A huge thanks to the guys at Nevada Suzuki - the bike is running better than the day I bought it. I explained all the issues with the bike, including the symptoms that the Irish dealers told me were normal. Everything fixed - no stutters at 3k revs or chugging trying to pull through 4k revs in a low gear. I think they synched the carbs and re programmed the bike. Whatever they did, it’s great now. Getting a new tire was a disaster. Went to two shops in Vegas and neither had a tire. The guys in Cycle Gear were great and rang every other shop in Vegas - no-one had a tire to fit the V-Strom. All I could do is leave on the bald tire and hope I’d find somewhere with a one.

With all the messing about trying to find a tire, it was quite late by the time we were getting to Death Valley, so we decided to find somewhere to stay on the far side, in a town called Lone Pine. We all forgot that it was a holiday weekend in the USA so every hotel and motel was booked up. No choice but to head north to a town called Bishop, where we got a motel. The weather was ok - seems a cold front has covered the west coast and it was only 25c in Death Valley where normally it would be about 45c+. Still it was the perfect weather to reduce wear on the tire. 280 miles done.

Arty shot in Death Valley

Death Valley

Death Valley

Yesterday then we decided to head straight to San Francisco. It was the best chance for me to get a tire and was about 360 miles away. Yosemite National Park was closed due to the cold weather, so we had to go north of it and get a different road across the mountains. Hearing Yosemite was closed should have rang a few bells but it didn’t. Heading north on the 395 out of Bishop we climbed to over 8000ft and hit snow. Not the nicest experience on my dodgy tire. From there we turned onto the 88/89 west and then onto the route 50 west. It has to be some of the worst weather I’ve ever driven in. Most of it was spent between 25-50mph. I kept telling myself that at least it was an adventure!

The weather outside was frightful……

So after a very long day, we arrived to the KOA camp site in north of San Francisco. Next few days we’ll spend seeing the sights before starting towards Seattle where the girls fly home on Wednesday of next week, and then we ride to Alaska.

Hopefully tomorrow I’ll get a tire…..

Route

So after months of planning, the day myself and Miryam were to marry finally came about. We decided to get married in The Little White Chapel and I have to say it was lovely. They were very easy to deal with and the wedding was stress free (for me anyways, Miryam had the jitters that morning).

11.30am the limo arrived to pick us up. Our driver, Curt, later did a great Arnie impression. He brought us to the chapel where we signed all the forms and went in for the ceremony. I think it took all of 11 minutes including Elvis singing us a few songs. Have to say I’d recommend what we did for anyone who’d like a stress free wedding.

Miryam looking beautiful in her wedding outfit

Elvis’ jacket is a bit big for me I think

After the wedding we went back to the hotel and chilled by the pool for a few hours before going to the Wynn hotel to catch the “Le Reve” show. All I can say is that it’s amazing. I think the show is part of the Cirque Du Soleil group. It involved various acrobats, synchronised swimmers and trapeze artists and a water stage. Google it! If anyone is ever in Vegas, this show is worth seeing. Have to take this opportunity to thank Sean, Elaine and Warren Hensman for organising the tickets for the show.

Not a great picture of the Le Reve water stage

The plan on Tuesday (20th May) was to ride from Los Angeles to Las Vegas. We had considered stopping off mid way and staying overnight, but since it was only about 280 or so miles, it was decided to do it in one hop and pass through Mojave National Preserve.

Not too much to report on the drive up. The girls got their first real taste of the heat (and what we expected for Las Vegas and Death Valley). I think they were shocked. The air con in the car kept them nice and cool until we got near Mojave where we stopped at a Dairy Queen for ice cream. I think it was around the 42c mark. Warm enough.

Mojave National Preserve

Mojave National Preserve

We arrived into Vegas and got a Super 8 motel. We had booked ourselves into Treasure Island for the Wednesday, Thursday & Friday nights, but for Tuesday night it was a motel.

So Tuesday night and Wednesday we took in some of the sights Vegas had to offer. Also finally we had a few days downtime where I could get the bike repaired. Dropped it into Nevada Suzuki - more than helpful. Also needed a new rear tire as the one on the bike was bald, but that’s a story for a later blog.

Miryam’s day was made when she won $25

Vegas by night

Star Trek show at the Vegas Hilton

Finally, the route.